Roughout leather is made from the flesh side of the hide — the inside surface turned outward. It looks similar to suede but is thicker, tougher, and more durable. You’ll find it in boots, saddles, and shoes, especially workwear and military gear.
Unlike smooth leather, roughout has a textured surface that traps dust and oil, making cleaning slightly tricky but completely doable with the right steps.
How to Clean Roughout Leather
Here’s a simple, effective way to clean roughout leather without ruining its texture or color.
1. Brush Off Dirt and Dust
Use a soft-bristled suede or horsehair brush.
Gently brush the surface to remove loose dirt.
Always brush in one direction to lift the nap evenly.
If cleaning roughout leather boots or roughout leather shoes, make sure they’re completely dry before brushing.
2. Spot Clean Stains
For light stains:
Mix a small amount of mild soap (like saddle soap) with water.
Dampen a soft cloth or sponge — never soak the leather.
Rub the stained area gently in circular motions.
Wipe off excess moisture and let it air-dry naturally.
For heavier buildup on a roughout leather saddle, use a saddle cleaner specifically designed for unfinished leathers.
3. Raise the Nap Again
Once dry, the surface may look flat or darkened.
Gently brush it again using a suede brush or crepe rubber.
This restores the fuzzy, rough texture and natural appearance.
4. Apply Leather Conditioner (Optional)
Conditioning roughout leather is optional, but a light application helps prevent it from drying out.
Use a non-darkening leather conditioner or mink oil sparingly.
Test on a small hidden area first.
If you’re wondering about mink oil, check out our guide [Is Mink Oil Good for Leather Boots?] to know when and how to use it safely.
Extra Tips for Roughout Leather Care
Avoid soaking or applying direct heat — it can harden or crack the fibers.
Never use wax polish, as it changes the look and feel.
Store in a cool, dry place and brush regularly to maintain the nap.
For long-term care, read our post [How to Care for Leather Boots] — it covers all essentials for keeping leather gear in perfect condition.
How to Remove Mold from Roughout Leather
If you ever find mold spots:
Mix equal parts white vinegar and water.
Lightly dab the affected areas using a soft cloth.
Let the item dry in fresh air (avoid sunlight).
See our full guide [How to Clean Mold Off Leather Boots] for detailed mold-removal steps that work for both smooth and roughout leather.
Final Thoughts
Cleaning roughout leather isn’t difficult — it just requires a gentler approach. Regular brushing, spot cleaning, and occasional conditioning will keep your roughout boots, saddles, and shoes looking rugged yet well-kept.
Avoid harsh chemicals and heavy polishes — roughout leather’s beauty lies in its natural, matte texture. With proper care, it can last for years while maintaining that classic worn-in look.
